Bounty Hunter Elite 2200 vs Bounty Hunter Land Ranger
www.kuraoka.org
My two cents about two detectors

Thanks to Craigslist, I now own two metal detectors: a Bounty Hunter Land Ranger and a Bounty Hunter Elite 2200, which is the same machine as the Bounty Hunter Discovery 2200 but sold through a different retail channel. The Elite 2200 was my first detector, bought used in April 2018. The Land Ranger with two coils was bought used in February 2019. Here's all the stuff I use for metal detecting, and here's my metal detecting journal with my latest finds.

The Bounty Hunter Elite 2200 may be a current machine, but the older Bounty Hunter Land Ranger is more sophisticated. The two machines are aimed at different markets, with the Elite/Discovery 2200 aimed at the middle to upper-middle of the mass market and the Land Ranger aimed at serious detectorists at about twice the original retail price of the Elite/Discovery series. Note that my machine is the old C-cell Land Ranger, not the newer high-end Land Ranger Pro. When it was new in the early 2000s, the Land Ranger was a mid-level hobbyist detector, positioned above Bounty Hunter's Land Star and below their top-of-the-line Time Ranger. The Discovery 2200 is positioned above the Discovery 1100 and below the Discovery 3300. So, both metal detectors sit in the middle of their respective series.

On the Bounty Hunter Land Ranger, I really like the target ID number system (1-299), which helps distinguish between targets with similar magnetic profiles (e.g.: copper pennies from clad dimes); I only wish the TID numbers were bigger. The Land Ranger's probable target pointer display separates nickels from pull tabs, so they're easy to tell apart. And, at the extreme high end of the target range, the numeric TID system will help distinguish silver dollars (I should be so lucky!) from rusty chunks of metal (much more likely). On the other hand, you'll need to rely on the TID numbers to tell zinc pennies from screw caps, because the pointer display lumps them together. The display shows a lot of information using digital pointers, and many buttons have more than one function when activating features, so studying the manual is essential. The Land Ranger is a highly configurable, advanced detector with an array of useful pre-sets. It's a detector I'll grow into as I master its numeric TID system and customizable functions.

The weak spot when buying a used Land Ranger, especially one that takes two C-cells like mine, is that the wires to the battery holder are very thin and, by now, quite old and brittle. One of the first things I did with mine was accidently break one of the battery holder wires. I fixed the connection with electrical tape, but a little later the other wire broke, this time in a place where a tape-splice isn't possible, so I'm going to have to do the job right and re-wire the battery holder.

My Bounty Hunter Land Ranger tips:

  • Periodically check that the coil cord plug is securely set into the control box. It seems to work loose, and then you get ghost signals, especially at the ends of swings.
  • The Land Ranger likes a tighter cord wind than the Elite 2200. Not too tight, though.
  • Two C-cell batteries are heavy, so be careful when you slide out the battery holder. The wires connecting the battery holder to the machine are very thin.
  • The battery holder is fairly loose inside the case, and when it slides around it can lead to weird readings and wires breaking. I stabilized my battery holder with a small strip of bubble wrap - problem solved!
  • I generally detect in Disc/Target mode using pre-set #1.
  • On power-up, make sure the coil is at least a couple feet off the ground, or it'll have trouble taking the air measurement. Once "Ir" appears in the display, lower the coil to the ground, and select either "Smart Trac" or "Disc/Target."
  • Smart Trac is a non-motion-based all-metal-only mode. The detector emits a continuous audio tone that increases in volume as the coil nears a metallic object, kind of like a Geiger counter but for metal. A target ID number and depth will display for solid lock-ons, but you cannot discriminate out targets.
  • Disc/Target is a motion-based all-metal mode that also lets you select targets to discriminate out, including using pre-sets. When the coil passes over a target, the detector beeps using one of three audio tones to indicate the target type, and displays a probable target ID pointer, TID number, and target depth.
  • You can switch back and forth between Smart Trac and Disc/Target modes; as long as you don't power off, the Disc/Target mode will retain all your settings.
  • Smart Trac is very useful for rough pinpointing and determining the approximate size and shape of the target. It may take a while to ground balance, just be patient and wait for the "Gb" ("ground balancing") to change to "rY" ("ready").
  • In parks I use Disc/Target pre-set #1 with the overall sensitivity dialed all the way down to 2. That eliminates most trash and deep targets while still finding poppable coins and objects. The photo of the control box panel shows the settings I typically use.
  • In tot-lots I use Disc/Target pre-set #1 with the overall sensitivity dialed slightly down from the default level of 5.
  • The "ground monitor" and "level" (-+) pointers are relevant only in Smart Trac mode, and have no function in Disc/Target mode.
  • I carry a spare set of two new alkaline C cells in my bag.

    • On the Bounty Hunter Elite 2200, I especially like the very large numeric depth display, which is much easier to read than the Land Ranger's small digital dial. The Elite 2200 is also considerably lighter so it's easier to carry and swing. It takes 9-volt batteries, so it can share with my pinpointer. I've come to appreciate its quick start-up, just press "power" and go, no waiting for an air measurement or ground balancing. Its probable target pointer display separates zinc pennies from screw caps, a useful distinction. On the other hand, it lumps pull tabs and nickels together, and frequently identifies chunks of corroded metallic debris as half-dollar or dollar coins. Unless they're very shallow, I've learned not to bother with them. I like the ease of "zapping" target types, filtering them out at the touch of the "Zap" button. It is compatible with the four-inch coil. The Bounty Hunter Elite/Discovery 2200 is definitely more of an easy-to-use, grab-and-go detector with enough capability to satisfy any hobbyist for a long time.

    My Bounty Hunter Elite/Discovery 2200 tips:

  • Periodically check that the coil cord plug is securely set into the control box. It seems to work loose, and then you get ghost signals, especially at the ends of swings.
  • Wind the cord loosely around the shaft. It shouldn't be floppy or it'll catch on things, but a little play is good.
  • I use rechargeable 9-volt batteries and they work great. That said, I always have a back-up set of alkalines in my bag and I recharge the batteries after they've been at three bars (out of four) for a few trips. I've found the machine likes its juice fresh, and when the battery life indicator drops to two bars it seems to have trouble locking on.
  • If the detector suddenly gives inconsistent, jumpy readings, and the cable is plugged in tightly, then the batteries may be loose. They can be snugged up by sliding a small piece of folded paper or thin cardboard between the ends of the batteries and the plastic prongs that hold them in place.
  • On power-up, the detector defaults to all-metal mode. However, what it calls "all metal" (A-M) is in fact a discrimination mode with nothing discriminated out. You can still discriminate out target types by zapping them.
  • I generally detect in all-metal mode. I like hearing this detector chat to me; the relatively constant audio feedback helps me visualize what's down there.
  • In parks and tot-lots, I detect in all-metal mode with the sensitivity knocked down to no bar or one bar, and if I'm getting a lot of trash signals I zap out iron. That eliminates most trash and targets too deep to pop. The photo of the control box shows the settings I typically use.

    • I typically detect using the 4-inch "Gold Nugget" coil. A smaller coil is better for small targets like gold nuggets and flakes, but it's also better for locating shallow coins and discriminating out trash. As a gross oversimplification, the wider the coil, the deeper the signal can penetrate with reasonable accuracy; with a smaller coil you give up penetration but you pick up responsiveness and accuracy for smaller, shallower targets. It's a worthwhile trade-off for my local parks and play areas.

    I'd have been perfectly happy with only the Elite 2200, but when the Land Ranger came up for lunch money I couldn't pass it up. I'm very grateful to have them as my detectors!

    Back to My Metal Detecting Journal
    Back to My Metal Detecting Gear Page
    Back to the Kuraoka Family main page